Bay of Silence

Bay of Silence

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

THE PARIS FILES---Living Abroad in September

Part 3

Please Note
This Journal Contains
Drinking and Swearing
Deep Thoughts and Emotions
Personal Opinions and Observations 

Paris 7 

Tour Eiffle

ET

Kook is writing a book where her heroine is trapped in the Eiffel T. It's a psychological thriller. A big thing for her in coming to Paris was to spend some research time at the tower. We went that one evening, but being waylayed by promiscuous Greeks arrested the procedure. So today we are to go back and we were to go to the top. I am doing this for Kook as I enjoyed the night vision but once is enough for me in general as there are just too many tourists to keep me excited. The morning is overcast and as we get into the pretty long line it starts raining. Kook is pissed about the line. We decide to do the stairs. It's easy as pie even though there are 700. This goes to the 2nd floor then you can go the rest of the way on the elevator where there is not such a line. When we got our tix to walk up there were like 20 heavy middle aged Russians in the stair line and one was there yelling and swearing. One by one the hefty group is turning around and busting back past all the younger and in shape people. Obviously they were mislead and Boris the boss is not happy about it. When we go in we have a double purse search. There are no signs and on the second one I don't unzip my purse cause I assume there is an ex ray. Knowing damn well I am not French the snotty worker dude in a suit starts yelling at me in his language. I figure it out and unzip my purse. He still yells at me as I walk away. Jeez Dude I say, sorry I wrecked your day. I am super pissed to be treated like this. Fuck face French labor worker.



It's now raining like a bitch and windy. This has been a heyday for the hawker dudes selling umbrellas and ponchos. There are peeps all over wearing and using them. I don't want to go to the top in pouring rain with no view and it's cold. I tell Kook I'll meet her at home. But she says lets just eat at the restaurant here. It has nice atmosphere and the lunch prices were only a tad bit higher than a normal cafe. The staff is very nice and we get an OK table. We  splurge on the big beers. This is Kooks last meal to pay for. All they have is Heineken but that's ok. The food is ok, no better or worse than anywhere. Ironically, they serve it in like, airplane style containers which really reduces the opinion and feeling of your meal. The place looks like a metropolitan club and your food comes in a glass dish with a Tupperware top. How stupid of them. The waiter is nice and speaks almost flawless English. He was educated at an international school in Belgium. I have met other Euro workers educated at international schools and they have all been really class acts. Kook decides she will go up another morning. This gets me out of it. As we walk down the stairs in the rain I start to make up a little song. "Eiffel Tower in the rain, Au bon pain, Au bon pain. Kook wants to come back and do it again. Totally insane, totally insane." This is a master work. Perhaps I can sell the rights to the Rodin museum and they can have it inscribed on a wall to make up for my pilfering of the garden sign. 



We come home and I need some down time. It rains all day. Kook goes around the corner to sit at a cafe and write. She is approached by some local crone who seems to think she is the Parisian fashion expert. She tells Kook that wearing purple is the sign of prostitution. Kook is wearing purple. Then she tells her some malarkey that sounds like she got stuck about 10 years ago, in what is cool on the fashion scene. She says “ I was born in Paris and I will die in Paris!” When Kook comes in the door she says; "I've just been mistaken for a French whore".



We take long naps and I make some fresh pasta with ham. The ham inside looks like spam and I am a bit grossed out. There is no hot water and I am having an anxiety attack that what if something is wrong and I'll have to make a phone call. We can't find a hot water heater in the apt. Maybe it's shared and the neighbors used it up. We watch Date Night with Steve Corelle and are winding it down. Kook says she'll go to Sacre Coure and Montmartre if it's nice tomorrow. Yeah! I am excited about this place and am putting on my scamming armor.

 View from the ET landing

 Reflections

 The Big Beers (9 Bucks!!)

From the Flat


Paris 8

Fat Bottom Girls 

 Out of Time


So there are these auto-street terlets in Paris. Like an out house only elite. You will find one---a very painful ONE--here and there at a bustling area. There is never much of a line. There is a very good reason. The whole thing is automated; and retarded. If you make one wrong move it won't let you in , or out. I thought I was trapped at the Eiffel tower. For real, in the terlet, not in Kooks book. People stand around perplexed at the thing and friendly Parisians stop to help and explain. But you are not seeing them use these things. It lets you go, then runs a hand washing system, then a dryer, then maybe lets you out, without flushing, then washes the floor. If you make a wrong move it shuts you out or runs through the whole system while you are peeing your pants outside. Kook wanted to use it today. We tried to go in together, oh nono, you can't do that. Then I hear her trying to get out, then I go and force the handle to open it. It is the soup natzi of terlets. I am not using it again. I will pee in the street in the Marais like the dude we saw this afternoon. Yep, the Marais is like Broadway in Manhattan. A very prestigious, fancy, perfect area of Paris. And the street dude was just holding out his sweater and standing on the side of the street and peeing while all the fancy Parisians walked past. Ahhh Paris, the city of Pee.



It was pretty nice though a bit breezy today. We head out to Montmartre and Sacre Coure. This is the "top" of Paris on the north side and is a very up the hill area to the top where you see the very Turkish looking Mosque. I think it's beautiful and all my pictures are crooked. Gosh Dangit! I lost my basic straightening program when the microsoft editing software went obsolete and now I cannot straighten my buildings and I am cursed, and my friend Itzick on flickr will never let it by, so I can't post half my pictures. I am going to have to put that ridiculous grid thing up on my viewfinder or I am doomed. I hope it has one! Anyway this is known as a scammy trappy area but it was not too bad today. I had to blow off 3 bracelet scamming dudes but they did not bug me and Place du Terte, with it's artists and toury shops was kinda cute. Another rude-ass Parisian worker slammed my camera into my face and said "photo outside" in the Sacre Coure; as mass was starting. Everyone had a cam but I was unfortunate enough to be by him when they started blabbing and crooning the mass. I hate the tourist parts of Paris due to the crowds and horrible workers but you have to see them. I am not going back to the Eiffel. I pretty much hate it except for the night view. Kook is going alone tomorrow and I will wander through St. Germaine or go to some Gardens where I can have peace and enjoy Paris. I am totally in love with Paris now and I am so glad I came. There are a million things to see and do and I have just scratched the surface. I love the vibe and the variety and the metro and the streets and the fashion of the true Parisians.



So back to Montmartre. This was my next fav part of Paris. It's like gritty street Paris right next to beautiful hilly old school Paris and the two mix with just the right symmetry. (spell checker please--I tried to make it work but couldn't find it) I mean there is alot of graffiti and cobblestone streets and big old buildings all in a row and fun market streets with all kinds of little fooderies and cafes and boutiques and it's all got a feel of run down old romantic Paris and they are doing alot of fixing up here and there and this is where the red-light district called Pigalle is, and the old real Moulin Rogue. It's a bit dirty but it still has that feel of history trying to hold on in all it's ugliness and character. I have been walking a fuck-ton of stairs all week but my legs didn't hurt until today after walking up and down in this steep area. Our lunch was mag.  As we scoped out cafe's I see this place with giant salad bowls that everyone is getting and they have fried potatoes that look like chips on top of the salads and I smell garlic. This is the place for me. So we go back later and it is so good. My salad has the usual ham and I get roquefort cheese and olive and the fried taters are amazing. Also we get the big beers again. When I say this I mean like 18 oz. and it costs about 9 bucks US dollars but this place had it a bit cheaper to ad to the goodness. Beautiful place and great food. My picture sucks. ;(


Then we go to the Erotica museum. I have no interest in this and it is expensive for a small museum but I go for Kook and am very glad! I have loved every museum. This had 6 little floors with everything from ancient stone penis's to modern artist displays and it was very cool. The music was jazzy and fun and there were no crowds. The art was great and I just ignored that it was weird. The main featured artist did modern comic book like pencil drawings, very detailed; all in black and white. It was amazing art of the most bizarre thing. It was a naked lady with a sort of French Betty Boop look (but realistic) and she had big boobs and the HUGEST ass ever. The ass was the star of the drawings. Now this is gross but bare with me. The other character was like a little Greek slave man about one forth of her size and in every single picture he was chained under her with his face buried in her crotch. She was doing a million different things like, working at an office, drinking at a bar, bathing at the beach, or whatever, and naked with the slave guy smothered by her giant female parts. It was so weird and fascinating. There was a beautiful book of the art with a bit of color and I know it sounds gross but I may have to go back and get it. It is the strangest and wildest thing I have seen and would be a good memory of Paris. I just don't see it on the coffee table though. Anyway they had posters for sale from past artists and I got a cool one I will probably frame.



Back we go on the Metro thorough Stalingrad. There are more than a few German names on the transport system which must have come from when they occupied Paris during the war. They beat the crap out of Paris and I am really surprised that the German names were not changed. Either way, an interesting bit of history as there is also a Franklin D. Roosevelt station! We hang out and nap and then I need a desert so off we go to the Monoprix. It's super crowded as it's after work time and unlike America everyone buys just one or 2 days of food at once. I get some regular bread so I can make Croque Monsieurs which is grilled cheese. Mine is not as good as the one I got at the cafe. I also get puddings with cream and a lemon tart. Then I get an apple to look good. Then both Steve's skype us at the same time. We can't do a conference as we do not have that download on out computer. We call Sadak back and Lake (my son) comes on and looks pissed but he is just sick. He got in his car and drove home so Steve will have to call and excuse him. He has no problem with this. This is why I love him. Also now that we know the apt. has a loft and a couch he is going to check if he can get an earlier ticket cause he actually had 2 days off before he comes but I thought there would be no room. It will probably cost too much but it's worth checking. I am so full as I ate more paella also and have had a bunch of wine but I'm not buzzed 'cause I ate so much. I wonder if I will dream about giant ass slave boy oral sex? Sorry but that was weirdly obsessive. Don't worry though, it did not turn us on and cause us to have lesbian sex.

 Sacre Coure

 Place Du Tertre

 This is it

 In Montmartre

 Featured Artist

 Moi

Coolness

Paris 9

Finding Falafal King

Today Kook took off early to go to the ET again. She HAD to get to the top. I don't give a shit and never want to go there again. She ended up climbing the steps again as the line was even longer in the morning! Yuck. I was gonna shop or go to a museum but I took my time enjoying the apartment and jamming on my i-pod and being able to pee whenever I wanted. I kid you not I went 6 times before noon. I need a bladder replacement. Kook got back and we walked around and went to lunch at the Falafal place. Really nice people and great platters of food and a good ethnic beer. But we should have split a platter. The schwarma and falafal were fantastic but alot of other stuff came and we left half. How dumb of us. Then we got lost in the Marais for awhile but I liked it because it is like winding through a different world of people and shops and buildings and cobblestones molded with time and class and culture. 

 It has been looking like rain all day but hasn't, so we decide to head to Luxembourg gardens, one of the last things on the check list! It's quite deserted which I love, and there are pear orchards and men playing bocce ball and a big group of bee keepers in their bee keeping outfits which confused us for a moment. This palace and its gardens were commissioned by Marie de Medici who was the widow of Henry IV. She was Italian so the fabulous Fontaine Medici and the palace, which now houses the French senate, are built in that style. The Medici fountain is currently my single most favorite eye candy in Paris. Gorgeous statues surrounded by an arch type backing sprout small fountains and steps into a lovely small canal. Surrounded by greenery and shaded pathways we took some great pics and admired the peace on a not too busy day. It smells fabulous to walk through the gardens still with perfect late summer blooms.

We head home and I want to pick up a sammy for later as I'm sick of meat and cheese. Walking out of the Bastille is my ideal item waiting in a tiny little case with a friendly clerk who is super happy to speak English even when I am trying to speak French. We are deciding what to do for the last day. Now that Kook has "been to the top" so to speak she is happy as a clam. I have not wandered St. Germaine yet and speak my desires. She is in. Yee haw! Then we will go back to the book sellers on the Seine and get what we passed up the other day. It is supposed to rain on and off for my days alone. I have loved the museums so I can always do that if it's wet. Otherwise Paris has many more secrets and lots of shopping for me to partake in. I know just how to get to the H&M........Kook has got the Hobbit on again. We lost TV ability on the first day so I hope my computer will stream me some Trailer Park Boys in France. If it did on the Greek Islands, I think I got a pretty good chance.




 Falafal King


 Falafal Queen

 Mona in the Marais

 Luxenbourg Gardens

 Fontaine de Medici

 Garden Kooks