Sky Pond, Lake of Glass Trail. Rocky Mountain National Park

We recently took a quick run up to Rocky Mountain National Park to check out some fall colors.  That was not happening yet and we may have taken a fall if I did not remind myself of the photographers mantra:  if you don't see what you want, look at what you have. This seemed to be the 24 hr. theme and I had alot, but nothing I had actually planned on.  On getting to the park I got my yearly pass. That gets me through all of September next year for 40 bucks.  You can get that or get a week pass for 20 bucks. Not a tough choice for a semi-local.  It has a little owl on it. It was getting into the evening so I decided to take a quick trip on the most popular hike in the park at what I hoped would be a not so popular time. Up to Nymph, Dream, and eventually Emerald lake.  I was dreaming of a sunset shooting fest. Dream on white girl, I just cannot seem to pick that winning number.  We walked fast and only saw a few people. The other time I went on this trail was a weekday in the summer. It was a literal parade procession of people. I vowed to never go there again, but without the crowds the beauty was apparent. There were some lovely grey clouds framing the Keyboard of the wind range, but there was not much yellow yet. Strike one.  Upon reaching Emerald lake the sky was flat gray with no clouds. Strike 2.  I was bitching until I saw Steve stopped dead in his tracks.

There was a family of elk having an evening meal at the edge of the lake. They all posed for me and I got up close. Apparently that is not smart. Well, I didn't care, I had a hit. After pulling ourselves away I turned around to double check the sky and there was some golden light out of no where. I got some tres bon silhouette shots. Another hit. Heading a further down Steve says, "Look at this"  and there is amazing pink reflective light on the east peaks. Oh, this beat a lake sunset. Almost.  It was getting dark and Steve was nagging me to stop already. He has never done this before, but pizza was calling and he was starving. I think he was afraid of bears but he used hunger as a decoy.

 

Up at 5 the next morning after amazing pizza and our first taste of the film Metropolis on the hotel TV. Trippy wonderful.  No sunrise. Why am I not surprised.  We did get our spot at the Glacier Gorge lot which is something to celebrate in itself.  Still taking what I can get.  It's super windy and I have to tell myself to go with it.  Except for one guy, we have the first leg of the trail to Alberta falls to ourselves. This is unheard of. I try a few extended exposure water shots but without a tri-pod I never quite master that. Steve feels sick. Maybe it was the giant cup of coffee, the double allergy pill dose, the quick climb, and an empty stomach. Ya think!  We stop and have some leftover pizza for breakfast. This is my favorite hiker move. I hate those bars. I don't take many shots as I've done this trail a few times. I am headed to the Loch Vale and hoping for some clouds and reflections. I don't think so Tim. Strike 3, but I'm not out. It's so windy I can barely hold the camera but I manage a few framed shots in the bright morning light. We are off the Lake of Glass and Sky Pond. This is where it counts. I tried to do this last year in July and was blocked by snow.

 We see some 20 year olds literally jogging past us with skis and packs. Not light ones either. They are going to free ski at Andrews Glacier. Ah youth.  Last yr. the only people that went up to my goal lakes were 20 yr. old antelopes wearing gym shorts and tennis shoes. How the heck old am I really! I have a hat, hiking boots, and 2 waters.Comfort over form I tell you!  If you know me you would know that is total BS.. but I will make an exception on a long hike. Skirting around the edge of the Loch, we start the bridged walkway toward Timberline falls. It's a bit dry compared to the fields of rushing creeks filling the treed meadows in the early summer, but still beautiful. The sun is reflecting and blowing out my pictures. I love my photoshop I tell you.  Soon we hear the falls and I notice with joy, it is snow free. I'm gonna do this!

 We approach and I am excited to find myself climbing through the middle of the waterfall, which is the trail to get to Lake of Glass. It's a tad bit tricky but not daunting in early September. You can probably only do this 2 months of the year if you are an amateur or have a sense of caution. I have heard the lake is right over the ridge of the falls. The wind has quieted for the last mile and to look back East from whence we came is astounding. We scramble up the slippery rocks of the waterfall. You can't tell from the pic, but it's straight up and pretty fun. Mind your footing!.......  Lake of Glass my ass!  As soon as you pop your head over the ridge you are assaulted with gusts so strong your hands go numb and your hat flies off.  Steve goes around the side of the cliff to take a Pringle break while I continue to explore. I'll just see what happens. I really want to get to Sky Pond.  Things take an amazing turn, literally.  I am soon ensconsed in a little Switzerland type valley full of green grass, astounding cliffs, soaring clouds, fresh dusted peaks and huge boulder fields. Not to mention more waterfalls, beautiful ponds and even better views behind me. As bizarre as it seems, I find myself quoting the bible in my head as sometimes happens at these moments. This is a day the Lord hath made, let us rejoice and be glad in it!  If the quote fits, use it. Turning circles and burning up the memory card.  Oh I love these moments. This time the real thing just can't be captured but I will try to show a bit of the splendor.

I can't stop. I know the apex is not far. Steve will get worried but he made his choice. Clouds roll, cliffs resound, marmots chirp, fall grasses lend color. Ahhh, here is the nordic cirque of Sky Pond. It's a green lake at treeline. I can't get it in my viewfinder at all. I must save this one on the internal memory bank. It's cold and windy but I wait for the light to lend me shadows and color. Heading back I marvel at the path. This is way the heck up here in heaven and people have actually lined this upper section with huge bolder steps and retaining walls. Quite amazing. I mean like- how did they build the pyramids- amazing. Maybe this air and this surreal beauty lend strength to the park crew as well as eyesight to the blind.

I meet Steve on the way back. I send him on to what he can't miss. I'll wait and snack. Right. The wind has picked up and I have to crouch under a bush to try to shove some pringles and smoked salmon down. That's right, I picnic in style. I am just about to have death by wind when Steve gets back. Thank God he doesn't have a camera. Down we go and now tons of people are coming up. Steve has on a Packer shirt and every other person stops to rave on about football. He eats it up. My feet have me limping by the end. I gotta get some Dr. Scholls inserts, but I only think of this when I am at 12,000 feet. Steve is craving McDonalds. Why does this happen when in the wilderness?  I cave in and get an Angus beef. I'm good for 6 months on that action!  Steve is supposed to drive home. I drove there and that was the deal. He is SO tiiirrreeed.  He is going to fall asleep at the wheel.  Good thing I have had a rewarding and surprising 24 hrs. or he would never hear the end of this. I will use it in the future though. Mark my words.

Emerald Lake, Lake of Glass, Sky Pond, Rocky Mountain National Park

PASSAGE TO LAKE DOROTHY

A fine holiday birthday weekend held another glorious day; and a hike up to Lake Dorothy in the Indian Peaks Wilderness near Nederland, Colorado.  As well as a fine small mountain town with a ski resort, Nederland has some of the most popular hiking in Colorado and some of the best eats for tired and happy hikers. Today I got up at 5am and that was about the smartest thing I did on this busy labor day weekend. The 4th of July trailhead where this hike begins fills up fast, like it's Hessie trail sister down the road; and the cops were having a ticket fest. Beware if you go on a holiday. There is little free parking.

The Fourth of July trail head is at the end of a 6 mile rough road. In August and September a regular car can probably have a go, but it's gonna get you stuck most other months if you don't have an AWD.  Out biggest problem was getting past other parked cars along the narrow road. That being said, we went very early and were very glad to get a spot and Not a parking ticket. I have to admit, you could barely navigate when another car came opposite, and I suppose that is why the cops were at it. There were warning signs though, and I don't think they are usually that strict. Just beware.

The end of the rough road is a trailhead for a number of hikes and today we were going up Arapaho Pass to find Lake Dorothy, an unmarked gem, nestled in a beautiful glacier circ. I am very partial to Lake destinations and with good reason. Photo ops usually abound. Today I had no clouds at all but the program executed itself just fine. For a mile or so all the trails are joined and it's beautiful with waterfalls, meadows, mountain views, and wooden bridges. It's steep with some switchbacks but early in your climb you will have enough energy to enjoy the forest. I was surprised and happy to find still blooming and colorful flowers at the beginning of September.  Of course, the snow was not melted until late July up here so I'm sure there was a late start.

I was going to take a shot of some nodding sun flowers and at 6:30 was amused to see little bees curled up inside of alot of them. I never knew they were used as bee beds!  Breakfast in bed I guess! After a bit of a climb you will come to the first trail cut off.  Some go down to Diamond Lake and others continue up to Arapaho Pass, Glacier, and in our case; Lake Dorothy.  The path mellows to a gradual climb but you will still feel it as you are nearing tree line.  Some rusted mining equipment appears soon on your right and here is the caved in entrance to the 4th of July mine. The meadow behind it is lovely with little streams, still blooming flowers and a lovely peak frame job. We checked it out on the way back as I needed to get to that lake for photo op light.

A bit further up you will come to a Krummholz meadow with lovely little pools of rock and water. It is somewhat like a German fairy tale. In fact, Krummholz means twisted wood and that is what happens to these trees at treeline. The snow, wind, and subalpine atmosphere cause them to be somewhat twisted and stunted resulting in a miniature forest. It is quite charming and the growth of these trees is concentrated at the bottom so they are very full looking. Well worth some admiration and lingering, before you push on.

The last third of your journey takes you along a shale path skirting the side of the mountain. It's not steep but it's a bit hard to walk in the small shale stones and I couldn't believe it when I saw a girl in flip flops at the top! Now that's dedication. Stunning views accompany you the whole way.  There are small ponds down in the valley below you and rugged peaks ahead. Soon you hit Arapaho pass with 360* impressive views and all Colorado's glory. Here is the next cut off sign and you will follow the Caribou Pass trail, just a third of a mile hiking left; to Dorothy on the left. There are 2 little access trails and you can tell a lake is nestled there even if not signed for.

The terrain is covered with diverse brush that could probably benefit one who wanted to explore a bit closer up.  Red, orange and yellow hues were starting to emerge even on the first September weekend providing a superb fore-drop for the peaks and blue sky. The rock and boulders up here are also muti flecked and shaped making for even more eye candy.  Soon we see Ms. Dorothy as we take the left side path and at first I am bummed because she looks a bit gray.  I had read about a viewpoint on the left/southeast bank though. Steve settles against a lakeside boulder and I am off to climb the ridge for a photo viewpoint. Very, very good decision. Fun also. I scramble a path through some easy boulders and work my way up the mountain grass ridge. The rocks are impressive and the views continue to improve.

The lake becomes more beautiful from above and this is by far the photographers view point. I can barely barely get her all in one frame. Altitude and reflective sky give me a bit of the blue edge I was craving.  The top of this ridge is reward alone though. Unsuspectingly, the other side drops off into a deep and craggy gorge that is a delight and a breathtaking vision in itself. None of my pictures could capture the depth. You are really surrounded by all of the best. Lake, crevasse, vista, and valley assault your vision with mountain serenity and splendor.

After about 5 million shots a scramble back down the boulders and nab the pringles from a chilled out Steve. I find some gorgeous late blooming gentian which are a white hue I have never seen. I get a few last shots shore side and tell a few couples to go up the ridge! Don't be denied!

 As we edge back down there is a literal parade going up. Party after party after party.  Again, we scored big with an early start. I have a thing about hiking in solitude and this is not really the place to do it. On a holiday. On a weekend. On a sunny day.  On a perfect day.  I have no regrets. I catch a few spots I missed. I urge Steve down the almost impassable 3 lane jeep road that is meant to be one lane.  I see the cop at the end of a row of cars writing furiously.  He is on his 30th ticket or so by the looks of things. We had free parking today, and will be rewarded again at the Indian Buffet in Nederland. Happy birthday to me!

Lake Dorothy, Arapaho Pass, Forth of July Mine, Nederland, Colorado, Sept, 4, 2011

ICE LAKES BASIN HIKE WITH AN ISLAND ON THE SIDE

Sometimes you have an experience so profoundly excellent you wonder if it has ruined you for future endeavors. The hike I took to Ice Lakes Basin near Silverton, Co. recently put just such a musing into my mind. It was, in a word: overwhelming. Overwhelming in beauty, variety, color, weather, and reward. I am one who tends to believes that the best is yet to come; and so I must say; I have miracles in my future.

This is a popular trail and we were hiking on a July weekend, so an early start was a priority. I had read about an upper trail head that cut off 500 feet of elevation gain and a half mile of climbing. You should probably have an all wheel drive to tackle this jeep road, and my little Nissan was able to pull it off. We inched into a space on the side of the switchback heading to the nearby Clear lake and shouldered our packs. After completing this hike, I was more than happy that I had a day pack and not a backpacking rig. This climb goes high and mighty. But it is also semi short, and achingly sweet.  I checked with a few ladies shouldering their equipment to see if I was in the right place; and was impressed to see a woman about my age with her Mother! I was even more impressed after doing the climb. If I am doing this at 75 I am living right. Well, I already am but you see my point.

We began by crossing a strong and lovely waterfall.  Of which I took a weak and unattractive shot.  The trail then begins to wind through a green and rocky basin filled with the first hint of glorious flowers and vistas. Surrounded by granite peaks and strewn with patches of pine we have a taste of the amazing scenery that graces this trail.  By 8:30 we are entering some switchbacks through the old growth forest and breaking out the bug spray.  Do not forget the bug spray. Flies and mosquitoes like this hike too.

The trail winds steeply up for a mile or so and we are glad for the shade. The only shade of this trail which is blessedly on one of the tough parts.  Seasonal wildflowers continue to please the eye. I get a good shot of a new flower for me, a Star Wand, or Death Camus, as it is deadly but lovely.

Easy to navigate but rocky and deep, the trail eventually leaves the woods and opens to amazing meadowland filled with stream off-shoots and flower power picture perfect peace. It also stops climbing for awhile. Life here, suddenly, becomes very technicolor and it's hard to take it all in. The path winds through waist high cow parsnip and there is every Colorado darling you can imagine. For us, right in bloom. I could stay for hours takings shots of the surreal beauty, but the lower Ice lake is here and beckons me to eventually move on to even greener pastures.  Many people camp here and venture further without their packs. Several shaded areas and lovely waterfalls complete the awe inspiring basin.

With the exception of yesterday's backpackers, we are still relatively alone in this bucolic lower basin. Our rest and casual meandering end with a somewhat tricky stream crossing. But who cares if your boots get wet. You are gonna appreciate cold feet in a few minutes. The last half mile or so to the upper Ice lake is steep, rocky, hot and getting up past tree line. Puff puff rest. Step step; oxygen please. I make Steve promise not to diss me to others about my slow pace. I am saving myself for the last leg to Island Lake. The rhyme and reason that has drawn me to this place; like a moth to a flame. I saw ONE picture and I knew it was my destiny. Up we go. Up we go.  Every time I bend down to take a picture I get dizzy. And I am drinking lots and lots of water. You must drink.

Leaving tree line does not mean you are leaving flower line. If anything, the display becomes even more enchanting and lush. Like so many places in Colorado, a few minutes of movement will bring you a whole lot of change. There is so much appearing at once, I have trouble deciding what to do. I could spin circles and shoot, and not get a bad scene. Good thing my memory card has capacity. How could people cope with the limits of film.  I see a few people coming back that passed me earlier. (they were 20-- so there) and I know I am coming close. I have that just over the ridge feeling. How I relish my first sight of the lake. There is nothing that compares to a high alpine apparition. And that is what you feel you see here. The limited oxygen is compensated with breathless beauty. A blue-green blast of planetary wonder. Earth, Heaven, Jupiter.

Steve is sitting on the shore eating Pringles. I am running around like a maniacal photographer as the light, reflections and scenes all assault my senses in simultaneous outrageousness.  Little do I know, I ain't seen nothin' yet. There are a few people camped here and there are several other lakes a bit higher in the actual upper Ice Lakes basin. Most folks will choose here or there for their final destination. We are heading over to Island lake. The current reason for my existence. We must traverse along the outlet stream and up the side of a mountain face to reach this turquoise pool nestled in it's private glacial basin. I can't eat. I am on a mission. I am so glad I took an easy pace. I got enough fuel left to scale this last third mile or so.

There is nothing that can go wrong today. I have been gifted with some type of Nirvanic blessing. As we begin our last ascent, the flowers get better and the clouds you dream of for perfect photos start rolling up over the peaks. We have to scramble a little up here in the highlands. A young couple passes us coming down and she is rightly very cautious with a pack on her back. I try not to slip as I shoot.  Steve crosses the ridge first. He doesn't say anything. I guess I shouldn't ask why. I'm speechless.  The only other couple around passes us. They went swimming. It was frigid. They got there by accident. They must have been in shock when they saw this 8th wonder of the world.  Steve says he doesn't know how any hike can ever match this. I say I can die a happy man having seen this, and I'm a woman. I'll just let you look at a few pictures here. I didn't have to touch a single one. The elements all cooperated with my lens. Who am I to mess with perfection.

We have the planet to ourselves for 20 minutes of uninterrupted bliss. I take 8 million pictures of the same thing but it's different each time. I stop to gobble a few chips. We do some selfies. This is real life and I am living it. The marmots squeak and pop their heads up. We can see a few climbers across the glacial cirq way the heck up there. I guess it's time to roll. The clouds and light continue to morph and amaze. We know Colorado though, and would like to get down the hill before lightning strikes.

The climb back down to Ice lake is glorious. The clouds and snow throw off the hook shadows on the lake. The flowers seem even brighter. How good can you take it. Just about this good. I am filled to the brim with purple mountain majesty. We stop and talk to a few hikers coming and going. Not many have heard of Island lake. Or they don't seem interested. Good. Lets keep this under our cowboy hats shall we!  I found this lake on another blog. Maybe someone will find it on mine. With the slow traffic around me lately; no one can blame me for blowin the whistle on paradise. Milton be damned.

There are tons of people struggling up in the heat as we shimmy down. They are sweating and grimacing and swatting flies. Even the kids. That makes me feel a bit less wimpy. Getting up early is everything good when high mountain hiking. We're tired and glad we are soon in the shady woods. I see the 75 yr. old woman just hitting the last tough push with her daughter. I tell her it's hard going, but that she's almost there and that the rewards are great. She thanks me and means it. We relay a message from a worried Dad, down to his kid who went off trail to fish. They will be happy to see each other and see the rest too. For us, it's back to Silverton to wash off the trail and wash down some cold ones. Ain't life grand.

Island Lakes/Ice Lake Basins, Silverton, Colorado