PASSAGE TO LAKE DOROTHY

A fine holiday birthday weekend held another glorious day; and a hike up to Lake Dorothy in the Indian Peaks Wilderness near Nederland, Colorado.  As well as a fine small mountain town with a ski resort, Nederland has some of the most popular hiking in Colorado and some of the best eats for tired and happy hikers. Today I got up at 5am and that was about the smartest thing I did on this busy labor day weekend. The 4th of July trailhead where this hike begins fills up fast, like it's Hessie trail sister down the road; and the cops were having a ticket fest. Beware if you go on a holiday. There is little free parking.

The Fourth of July trail head is at the end of a 6 mile rough road. In August and September a regular car can probably have a go, but it's gonna get you stuck most other months if you don't have an AWD.  Out biggest problem was getting past other parked cars along the narrow road. That being said, we went very early and were very glad to get a spot and Not a parking ticket. I have to admit, you could barely navigate when another car came opposite, and I suppose that is why the cops were at it. There were warning signs though, and I don't think they are usually that strict. Just beware.

The end of the rough road is a trailhead for a number of hikes and today we were going up Arapaho Pass to find Lake Dorothy, an unmarked gem, nestled in a beautiful glacier circ. I am very partial to Lake destinations and with good reason. Photo ops usually abound. Today I had no clouds at all but the program executed itself just fine. For a mile or so all the trails are joined and it's beautiful with waterfalls, meadows, mountain views, and wooden bridges. It's steep with some switchbacks but early in your climb you will have enough energy to enjoy the forest. I was surprised and happy to find still blooming and colorful flowers at the beginning of September.  Of course, the snow was not melted until late July up here so I'm sure there was a late start.

I was going to take a shot of some nodding sun flowers and at 6:30 was amused to see little bees curled up inside of alot of them. I never knew they were used as bee beds!  Breakfast in bed I guess! After a bit of a climb you will come to the first trail cut off.  Some go down to Diamond Lake and others continue up to Arapaho Pass, Glacier, and in our case; Lake Dorothy.  The path mellows to a gradual climb but you will still feel it as you are nearing tree line.  Some rusted mining equipment appears soon on your right and here is the caved in entrance to the 4th of July mine. The meadow behind it is lovely with little streams, still blooming flowers and a lovely peak frame job. We checked it out on the way back as I needed to get to that lake for photo op light.

A bit further up you will come to a Krummholz meadow with lovely little pools of rock and water. It is somewhat like a German fairy tale. In fact, Krummholz means twisted wood and that is what happens to these trees at treeline. The snow, wind, and subalpine atmosphere cause them to be somewhat twisted and stunted resulting in a miniature forest. It is quite charming and the growth of these trees is concentrated at the bottom so they are very full looking. Well worth some admiration and lingering, before you push on.

The last third of your journey takes you along a shale path skirting the side of the mountain. It's not steep but it's a bit hard to walk in the small shale stones and I couldn't believe it when I saw a girl in flip flops at the top! Now that's dedication. Stunning views accompany you the whole way.  There are small ponds down in the valley below you and rugged peaks ahead. Soon you hit Arapaho pass with 360* impressive views and all Colorado's glory. Here is the next cut off sign and you will follow the Caribou Pass trail, just a third of a mile hiking left; to Dorothy on the left. There are 2 little access trails and you can tell a lake is nestled there even if not signed for.

The terrain is covered with diverse brush that could probably benefit one who wanted to explore a bit closer up.  Red, orange and yellow hues were starting to emerge even on the first September weekend providing a superb fore-drop for the peaks and blue sky. The rock and boulders up here are also muti flecked and shaped making for even more eye candy.  Soon we see Ms. Dorothy as we take the left side path and at first I am bummed because she looks a bit gray.  I had read about a viewpoint on the left/southeast bank though. Steve settles against a lakeside boulder and I am off to climb the ridge for a photo viewpoint. Very, very good decision. Fun also. I scramble a path through some easy boulders and work my way up the mountain grass ridge. The rocks are impressive and the views continue to improve.

The lake becomes more beautiful from above and this is by far the photographers view point. I can barely barely get her all in one frame. Altitude and reflective sky give me a bit of the blue edge I was craving.  The top of this ridge is reward alone though. Unsuspectingly, the other side drops off into a deep and craggy gorge that is a delight and a breathtaking vision in itself. None of my pictures could capture the depth. You are really surrounded by all of the best. Lake, crevasse, vista, and valley assault your vision with mountain serenity and splendor.

After about 5 million shots a scramble back down the boulders and nab the pringles from a chilled out Steve. I find some gorgeous late blooming gentian which are a white hue I have never seen. I get a few last shots shore side and tell a few couples to go up the ridge! Don't be denied!

 As we edge back down there is a literal parade going up. Party after party after party.  Again, we scored big with an early start. I have a thing about hiking in solitude and this is not really the place to do it. On a holiday. On a weekend. On a sunny day.  On a perfect day.  I have no regrets. I catch a few spots I missed. I urge Steve down the almost impassable 3 lane jeep road that is meant to be one lane.  I see the cop at the end of a row of cars writing furiously.  He is on his 30th ticket or so by the looks of things. We had free parking today, and will be rewarded again at the Indian Buffet in Nederland. Happy birthday to me!

Lake Dorothy, Arapaho Pass, Forth of July Mine, Nederland, Colorado, Sept, 4, 2011

ICE LAKES BASIN HIKE WITH AN ISLAND ON THE SIDE

Sometimes you have an experience so profoundly excellent you wonder if it has ruined you for future endeavors. The hike I took to Ice Lakes Basin near Silverton, Co. recently put just such a musing into my mind. It was, in a word: overwhelming. Overwhelming in beauty, variety, color, weather, and reward. I am one who tends to believes that the best is yet to come; and so I must say; I have miracles in my future.

This is a popular trail and we were hiking on a July weekend, so an early start was a priority. I had read about an upper trail head that cut off 500 feet of elevation gain and a half mile of climbing. You should probably have an all wheel drive to tackle this jeep road, and my little Nissan was able to pull it off. We inched into a space on the side of the switchback heading to the nearby Clear lake and shouldered our packs. After completing this hike, I was more than happy that I had a day pack and not a backpacking rig. This climb goes high and mighty. But it is also semi short, and achingly sweet.  I checked with a few ladies shouldering their equipment to see if I was in the right place; and was impressed to see a woman about my age with her Mother! I was even more impressed after doing the climb. If I am doing this at 75 I am living right. Well, I already am but you see my point.

We began by crossing a strong and lovely waterfall.  Of which I took a weak and unattractive shot.  The trail then begins to wind through a green and rocky basin filled with the first hint of glorious flowers and vistas. Surrounded by granite peaks and strewn with patches of pine we have a taste of the amazing scenery that graces this trail.  By 8:30 we are entering some switchbacks through the old growth forest and breaking out the bug spray.  Do not forget the bug spray. Flies and mosquitoes like this hike too.

The trail winds steeply up for a mile or so and we are glad for the shade. The only shade of this trail which is blessedly on one of the tough parts.  Seasonal wildflowers continue to please the eye. I get a good shot of a new flower for me, a Star Wand, or Death Camus, as it is deadly but lovely.

Easy to navigate but rocky and deep, the trail eventually leaves the woods and opens to amazing meadowland filled with stream off-shoots and flower power picture perfect peace. It also stops climbing for awhile. Life here, suddenly, becomes very technicolor and it's hard to take it all in. The path winds through waist high cow parsnip and there is every Colorado darling you can imagine. For us, right in bloom. I could stay for hours takings shots of the surreal beauty, but the lower Ice lake is here and beckons me to eventually move on to even greener pastures.  Many people camp here and venture further without their packs. Several shaded areas and lovely waterfalls complete the awe inspiring basin.

With the exception of yesterday's backpackers, we are still relatively alone in this bucolic lower basin. Our rest and casual meandering end with a somewhat tricky stream crossing. But who cares if your boots get wet. You are gonna appreciate cold feet in a few minutes. The last half mile or so to the upper Ice lake is steep, rocky, hot and getting up past tree line. Puff puff rest. Step step; oxygen please. I make Steve promise not to diss me to others about my slow pace. I am saving myself for the last leg to Island Lake. The rhyme and reason that has drawn me to this place; like a moth to a flame. I saw ONE picture and I knew it was my destiny. Up we go. Up we go.  Every time I bend down to take a picture I get dizzy. And I am drinking lots and lots of water. You must drink.

Leaving tree line does not mean you are leaving flower line. If anything, the display becomes even more enchanting and lush. Like so many places in Colorado, a few minutes of movement will bring you a whole lot of change. There is so much appearing at once, I have trouble deciding what to do. I could spin circles and shoot, and not get a bad scene. Good thing my memory card has capacity. How could people cope with the limits of film.  I see a few people coming back that passed me earlier. (they were 20-- so there) and I know I am coming close. I have that just over the ridge feeling. How I relish my first sight of the lake. There is nothing that compares to a high alpine apparition. And that is what you feel you see here. The limited oxygen is compensated with breathless beauty. A blue-green blast of planetary wonder. Earth, Heaven, Jupiter.

Steve is sitting on the shore eating Pringles. I am running around like a maniacal photographer as the light, reflections and scenes all assault my senses in simultaneous outrageousness.  Little do I know, I ain't seen nothin' yet. There are a few people camped here and there are several other lakes a bit higher in the actual upper Ice Lakes basin. Most folks will choose here or there for their final destination. We are heading over to Island lake. The current reason for my existence. We must traverse along the outlet stream and up the side of a mountain face to reach this turquoise pool nestled in it's private glacial basin. I can't eat. I am on a mission. I am so glad I took an easy pace. I got enough fuel left to scale this last third mile or so.

There is nothing that can go wrong today. I have been gifted with some type of Nirvanic blessing. As we begin our last ascent, the flowers get better and the clouds you dream of for perfect photos start rolling up over the peaks. We have to scramble a little up here in the highlands. A young couple passes us coming down and she is rightly very cautious with a pack on her back. I try not to slip as I shoot.  Steve crosses the ridge first. He doesn't say anything. I guess I shouldn't ask why. I'm speechless.  The only other couple around passes us. They went swimming. It was frigid. They got there by accident. They must have been in shock when they saw this 8th wonder of the world.  Steve says he doesn't know how any hike can ever match this. I say I can die a happy man having seen this, and I'm a woman. I'll just let you look at a few pictures here. I didn't have to touch a single one. The elements all cooperated with my lens. Who am I to mess with perfection.

We have the planet to ourselves for 20 minutes of uninterrupted bliss. I take 8 million pictures of the same thing but it's different each time. I stop to gobble a few chips. We do some selfies. This is real life and I am living it. The marmots squeak and pop their heads up. We can see a few climbers across the glacial cirq way the heck up there. I guess it's time to roll. The clouds and light continue to morph and amaze. We know Colorado though, and would like to get down the hill before lightning strikes.

The climb back down to Ice lake is glorious. The clouds and snow throw off the hook shadows on the lake. The flowers seem even brighter. How good can you take it. Just about this good. I am filled to the brim with purple mountain majesty. We stop and talk to a few hikers coming and going. Not many have heard of Island lake. Or they don't seem interested. Good. Lets keep this under our cowboy hats shall we!  I found this lake on another blog. Maybe someone will find it on mine. With the slow traffic around me lately; no one can blame me for blowin the whistle on paradise. Milton be damned.

There are tons of people struggling up in the heat as we shimmy down. They are sweating and grimacing and swatting flies. Even the kids. That makes me feel a bit less wimpy. Getting up early is everything good when high mountain hiking. We're tired and glad we are soon in the shady woods. I see the 75 yr. old woman just hitting the last tough push with her daughter. I tell her it's hard going, but that she's almost there and that the rewards are great. She thanks me and means it. We relay a message from a worried Dad, down to his kid who went off trail to fish. They will be happy to see each other and see the rest too. For us, it's back to Silverton to wash off the trail and wash down some cold ones. Ain't life grand.

Island Lakes/Ice Lake Basins, Silverton, Colorado